WHARFEDALE TRs HEAD TO THE OUTER HEBRIDES AND SKYE
Our last 2 annual trips had been to Ireland. Northern Ireland and the Coastal Causeway route ,2 years ago, and last year the Wild Atlantic Way. There had been a third trip also last year venturing into Wales.
To complete the United Kingdom tour, we decided this year’s trip should be to Scotland. A few places of interest were suggested and we quickly settled on The Outer Hebrides, or Western Isles including Skye. There was also some debate as to how long the trip should be. To do the whole thing justice it was decided it should be 2 nights on each, Lewis, Harris, Uists and Skye.
In the end 7 cars, 13 people took part. Because of distances involved we thought it best to take 2 nights to get to Ullapool, which was our first ferry sailing to Stornoway on Lewis, sailing at 10.30 on Tuesday 2nd May, that required a stop over the previous night in Ullapool.
Because Yorkshire to Ullapool isn’t a “just around the corner” run we decided to break the journey to Ullapool, with an overnight on 30 April as well. The trip was growing steadily longer. Some stayed with family around Edinburgh, the others in Pitlochry and Perth.
During the planning phase I had contacted Charlie Girdler, Scottish Highlands and Islands GL, asking about meeting up with any Local groups whilst we were up there. This proved impractical, but Charlie very kindly invited us to call into his place for coffee on the way to Ullapool, as we were passing not too far away.
The morning of 1st May saw 7 of us that had stopped the previous night in Perth visiting the grounds of Blair Athol Castle. We had agreed to meet the rest of the group, the further 8, who were travelling from around Edinburgh at the Castle entrance around lunchtime, we would then head to Charlie’s place as a group.
We arrived at Charlies around 1pm, with a very warm welcome from Charlie and his wife Margaret, to find they had put sandwiches on for us as well. We spent a very convivial couple of hours there. Charlie then offered to take us on a scenic route from his home, to miss out some of the A9. We duly followed, eventually parting company with him at Boat O Garten.
The group at Charlies
Some of the group with Charlie at Boat O Garten
Overnight in Ullapool was good, with pleasant late afternoon sunshine on the Loch.
Cars ready to depart Ullapool
Ullapool
Tuesday morning 2nd May saw us gathering to get to the ferry terminal for the 9.30 check in. It was only 5 minutes down the road, so no big deal.
2 3/4 hours later, just after lunch, and after a quiet crossing, thankfully, we docked in Stornoway. We were too early to check into the Cabarfeidh Hotel, where we had 2 nights booked. We regrouped in the hotel car park. As it was such a good day, blue skies, and sunshine we decided not to waste it and headed directly to the Butt of Lewis, which bizarrely is at the top of Lewis and not the bottom. Some of the rock formations were spectacular, and the water very clear.
Butt of Lewis
On the way back to Stornoway and the hotel, some of us took the opportunity to visit Coll Beach. This is on “the road to nowhere” Mike & Kate went a bit further along the road to Garry Bridge, which is the bridge to nowhere, near Tolsta. Part of an idea in the 20th Century by Lord Leverhulme, which never came to fruition.
On our second day on Lewis we headed to Gearrannan Black House Village. A collection of preserved Black Houses, on the edge of a cove. Although the weather was very good for us, you could easily see how bleak a place it is and how hard life could be, when the weather closes in. Each house explained life in the village, one of the houses contained a weaving loom, with a guy explaining the process. It was slightly embarrassing as it turned out John Roberts knew more about the Loom and it function than the guy did.
We left the Black Houses and headed to Callanish. A visit to Lewis isn’t complete without seeing the Standing Stones of Callanish ( the isle of Lewis’ version of Stonehenge). A collection of what seems at first sight to be a random collection of stones. But not so. The stones have caused intrigue and mystery for many years, set facing directly North and South.
Standing Stones of Callanish
Hmm, what's John thinking?
It was at this point, leaving the Stones that John & Sheila’s TR6 decided it had gone far enough and refused to start. A check showed the battery was still ok, no obvious wires broken or not connected. A bump start got them underway, and heading back to the hotel, John & Fran kindly offered to follow them to make sure they arrived ok.
In spite of a good check over later on from John R, Dave & Phil nothing obvious could be found, other than the wiring getting very hot under load. The conclusion was a duff solenoid on the starter. John had phoned the RAC, but the representative they sent was neither use nor ornament. John & Sheila continued the rest of the trip being bumped off, which caused some good banter, and John choosing some choice parking positions to assist.
From the Stones we headed to Great Bernera, this was a fabulous spot, including the drive to get there. Randomly there was also a cemetery located there called Bosta Cemetery, which included a few Commonwealth War Graves.
Bosta Beach on Great Bernera
The Cemetery on Great Bernera, and the Iron Age Fort
Meal on the second night in Stornaway, La Balena.
One of the quirky things on the Islands, bus shelter.
Stornoway Castle
Wednesday 4th May, and time to leave Lewis and head down to Harris, and our hotel for 2 nights, The Harris Hotel in Tarbert. It wasn’t a very long drive, so we decided to detour along a spectacular up, down and very sinuous road, which eventually ends up at a place called Hushinish, an incredible road, with stunning scenery.
The contrast between Lewis and Harris was quite dramatic, Lewis being reasonably flat with not many hills, in comparison Harris was very hilly and mountainous. You could see the mountains in the distance as you drove down. Spectacular.
Fran & John decided there was a Broch they wanted to visit on the way down, so didn't drive this road till the Sunday, part way along the road there is a parking area with a walk up the hill to the Eagle Observatory, which, much to John & Frans dismay being Sunday was closed. Clearly the Eagles don’t venture out on a Sunday.
Our hotel on Harris, Harris Hotel
For our evening meals we had decided to eat in the hotels the first night and eat out the second night. On Harris we had to swap this around, we had picked the North Harbour Bistro on Scalpey to eat out, about a 15 minute drive from the hotel, as they were closed on Sundays we swapped to Saturday, John & Janet drove, the rest of us shared 2 taxi journeys in the only taxi service on Harris, courtesy of Angus. A 15-minute journey of hilarity.
The place and food were fantastic, but not cheap.
North Harbour Bistro on Scalpey, and sunset at Scalpey
Our second day on Harris, Sunday we headed out on really the only main road on Harris, stopping off at Luskentyre Beach, on the West side of Harris, an incredible expanse of sand.
Sheila having a paddle
Monday morning 6th May we had a fairly early start, leaving the Harris Hotel at 7.15 for a 30 minute drive to Leverburgh, in order to catch the 8.25 ferry for a 45 minute crossing to Bernaray for North Uist. We didn’t really have time for breakfast, but no matter there was a Butty Bus at the ferry terminal.
Butty Bus at Leverburgh ferry terminal
Cars on the Leverburgh ferry
I suppose technically Bernary is an Island between the bottom of Harris and North Uist but is connected to North Uist by a causeway. Back in 2005 Janet & John, on one of their cycling extravaganzas, had stayed in a Youth Hostel on Bernaray, and wanted to try and see if it was still there. As it was only a few miles from the ferry terminal we all tagged along. To our surprise it was still there, 2 pristine white cottages, quite homely inside, with a bloke in one of them having a cuppa, guess what, he was on a cycling holiday too, what a surprise.
Janet & Johns Youth Hostel, still there from 2005
Our stay on the Uists was at the Polochar Inn, right at the bottom of South Uist, just about as far as you can go. There is only one road down and back up the Uists. Again, this part of the Western Isles was a complete contrast to Lewis and Harris, back to being generally flat, and I thought, quite bleak, and at the Northern end quite industrial.
Jane had kept mentioning a bear called Hercules that had escaped on the Island, and in a forest was a wooden statue of him. So, we just had to go and find him, which we did, you’ll have to Google Hercules the Bear to get the full story. It made Janes’ day though, so all was good.
The group and Hercules
We didn’t do a great deal of driving on South Uist, we took the opportunity for a 4 mile circular walk one morning, and later some of us had a short drive to see Loch Boisdale.
We had wanted to visit the Island of Barra, which is a short ferry crossing from Eriskay, which is a small Island connected to South Uist by a causeway, Unfortunately all the ferry sailings were fully booked, so we had to settle for a drive around Eriskay, which although short was very good, and the location for Whiskey Galore, the film based on the true story of the ship wreck just off the Island in 1941. Of course, there is a pub on the Island named after the ship, AM Politician, which we had to call in to sample its delights.
On Eriskay looking back to South Uist
Some artefacts from the AM Politician, on the bar of the AM Politician
The Polochar Inn, and its Sheila's birthday, yay.
2 nights at the Polochar Inn were soon up, and we were heading back up to North Uist and after calling at the North Uist Distillery on the way to stock up on Gin, we made for Lochmaddy, and the ferry to Uig on Skye. It was at this point the weather turned against us, the cloud descended, and the rain came down, it would be like this for most of the 2 nights on Skye, with little respite.
After arriving on Skye we headed for The Skye Museum of Island Life, which is a collection of thatched croft cottages, the inside of each one depicting a facet of Island life some 100 years or so ago. It was quite high up, the rain was coming down and the wind was howling, we certainly got a taste of what Island life would have been like. Even The Old Man Of Storr wasn’t out.
Accommodation on Skye capable of taking all the party couldn’t be found at the time of booking, so we split into 2 groups in 2 Guest Houses, Loch Eyre and The Thistle Guest house, both within about 10-minute drive of Portree. It has to be said, Skye was not our favourite place, maybe coloured a bit by the weather, the roads were atrocious, full of potholes, and there were just too many camper vans.
On our second day, the rain decided to abate a little and we headed to Dunvegen Castle and Gardens. There was added interest here as on the shores of the Loch they were doing half hour boat trips to see the seals, which we booked.
Dunvegen Castle
When the weather did break, and the cloud lifted, the sun came out the scenery was spectacular, the jagged peaks of the Cullins visible. John Royle was made up, having climbed them many years ago as a lad…….
The Cullins
Waiting for the evening meal at the Bracken Hide, Skye.
For a few days Phil Read had been complaining of a vibration on his car, that appeared to get worse on Skye, probably the roads didn’t help. It got to the point on our last day at the Guest House and Phil decided investigation was required, with help from John R it was quickly diagnosed as a failing rear UJ on the prop shaft. A call was made to a garage at the Kyle of Lochalsh, and the following day, on our way home, Phil was able to get the car on a lift. Unfortunately, repairs couldn’t be carried out, so the car ended up being recovered home, and Phil & Jane were given a hire car to get home.
Whilst a disappointment, it didn’t detract too much from the overall enjoyment and delight of the trip.
The morning we left Skye, Friday 10th May, the sun was back out again and the scenery on the run South following the coast down to the bridge was jaw dropping. Once over the bridge some of us took a 20 minute detour to see Plockton, which is a pretty little harbour spot, well worth a visit.
We were also blessed with glorious sunshine, and yet more jaw dropping scenery during Friday afternoons run across to Invergarry, then South to Fort William, and across through Glencoe.
I’m struggling to find superlatives to sum up the whole trip, it was a delight from start to finish, and I think exceeded most or our expectations. We were very fortunate with the weather. The accommodation was great, we had fantastic meals, the company and camaraderie were fabulous. Thanks to everyone who made it such a special trip.
Ian Meeson